Before arriving in Paris, I had done
considerable research with regards to finding the best macaron. The
two main contenders were clear, so I committed to trying a half dozen
at each patisserie (I had to give them a thorough assessment). Price was not factored into my evaluation because
my purpose was to decide on the best, not the most economical. It was to be a battle between Pierre Herme and Laduree, two colossi of confections. May
the best macaron win...
We swung by one of the Pierre Herme
locations after lunch one day, which was conveniently located just
behind the Conciergerie. Pierre used to be the pastry consultant at
Laduree before leaving to open up his own shop. Therefore, much of
what Laduree does now was under the advice of Pierre, which poses the
question of whether the competition is even fair because it is
technically Pierre versus his past self. The store itself was bright,
colorful, and modern with the pastries and macarons on one side and a
glass display case of chocolates on its opposite. It wasn't very busy
so we took our time looking over the selection and talking with the
person taking care of us, who was very friendly and eager to help.
She packaged the macarons nicely and properly on their side in a bag
that was sealed tightly and even after making our choices, she
stepped to the side to chat with us about Pierre Herme and my macaron
quest.
| The assortment at Pierre Herme |
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| The only thing better than chocolate is pretty chocolate |
| Caramel, Jardin andalou, Raspberry, Banana, Mogador, & Arabesque |
Our Pierre Herme selection:
- Caramel with fleur de sel
- Caramel with fleur de sel
- Mandarin orange and red berries with
olive oil "Jardin andalou" - August Flavor of the Month
- Milk chocolate and passion fruit
"Mogador"
- Apricot and pistachio "Arabesque"
- Veloute banana
- Veloute raspberry
The consistency was alright - they were
soft the whole way through and chewy but not sticky. The downside was
that the shell had no crispness, so the texture was limited in that
way. The flavors were fantastic - creative, strong, and complex.
Joe's favorite of the bunch was the banana yogurt. It had a great
flavor and the yogurt made it tart. My favorite was the Arabesque,
which had a piece of pistachio praline in the center. I loved both
the flavors and the pairing of them was really well done. Even
better, the ganache is not thickened with cream but with dried
apricots, making it all flavor and no fluff. The Mogador is their
most popular flavor and while it was interesting, it wasn't my
favorite combination. The Jardin andalou was tasty - it took a
second to taste the olive oil but it changed the flavor entirely. The
caramel was slightly burnt in the caramel macaron so it left a bad
aftertaste.
Full disclosure: In order to ensure
the integrity of this comparison, it must be noted that the pastry
chefs at Pierre Herme were on vacation (along with half of Paris). I
have no idea if this had any effect on the macarons, only that it was
the reason they did not have bread in the store.
Il y a Tout Ce Que Vous Voulez Aux
Champs-Elysees
After running through traffic at the
Arc (we have been informed there are tunnels to walk through to
address this issue), we wandered down the Champs-Elysee on our way to
the Eiffel Tower. Sitting amongst the designer stores is Laduree, the
oft-crowned winner of the best macaron in Paris challenge, including
by Joe's friend who did a stint in Paris. Laduree has 27 stores across the globe where 15,000 macarons are sold every day. They even designed a makeup line based on the colors/flavors of their macarons.
The store is attached to their fancy
restaurant and was over-the-top lavish with a lot of gold in the
design. They might be the original decorations but it was also very
poorly lit, adding to the feeling that it was cold and dated. The
staff clearly dealt with a lot of people and could not care less
about you or your order - they were only interested in getting you
out of the store. The person helping us also tossed our macarons in a
bag haphazardly so at least two were broken before we even got to the
register. Lame.
| The Laduree lineup |
| Everything gold |
Our Laduree selection:
- Coffee
- Orange blossom
- Yuzu ginger
- Vanilla
- Chocolate coconut
- Strawberry candy
The macarons were not as neat as
those at Pierre Herme and looked less appealing in general, but that
could also be due to the store's dim lights or the unfriendly staff.
The consistency was a bit better than Pierre Herme only because the
macarons had a tiny bit of crunch in the shell. Otherwise, they were
similarly soft throughout and chewy but not gummy. Joe's favorite
flavor was the strawberry candy, which was covered in pink granulated
sugar in addition to being extremely sweet. The orange blossom was
good but was too heavy on the floral flavor, and the yuzu ginger had
not as much ginger taste as it did a general spiciness. Not
surprisingly, my favorite flavor of the group was the chocolate
coconut and while it could have used a bit more of each flavor, it
was the standout overall.
In the interest of research, we also
tried a strawberry macaron from McDonald's and unfortunately, they
probably had the best shell out of all three. However, it was a bit
dry and the flavor was just average. Even without taking into account
the staff and storefront appeal (although Pierre Herme blew Laduree
out of the water so it's difficult to not factor it in), the flavors
at Pierre were ultimately better - unique, delicious, and
well-executed. All things considered, I would return to/recommend
Pierre Herme over Laduree any day.

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